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InitialsDiceBearhttps://github.com/dicebear/dicebearhttps://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/„Initials” (https://github.com/dicebear/dicebear) by „DiceBear”, licensed under „CC0 1.0” (https://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/)I
Posts
3
Comments
27
Joined
3 mo. ago

  • From my understanding 4hrs isn't long enough. You need to bake it at 100C for at least 10-12 hours for the crystalline structures to fully rebuild. I did a lot of researching and found that the longer it's annealed the longer the chains, and that helps in impact resistance and creep. However. If it's annealed too long it will weaken it and make it brittle. 10hrs at 100C, then SLOWLY lower temp to room temp. After that, either let it sit out in a humid environment for 2 weeks, or place in a plastic bag with a wet sponge for a 3-5 days. That should moisture condition it to spec

  • +1 for Centauri Carbon

    Sub $300 printer with an enclosure, comes stock with hardened nozzle, doesn't require printing with a cloud service

  • From my understanding, PA6-CF is one of the better filaments to use, as it has some of the best temperature/strength/impact resistance qualities of consumer-available filamemts

    There is some who say PPA/PPS is better, but I think PA6-CF is the best all-around option

  • Best bet would be to print in PA6, as it suggers from creep a lot less with continuous strain, however, from my understanding - the reason the OG OKB didn't have the option for OEM Grips was due to the pressures applied by the hammer spring / block, which required more "meat" where the pin goes as that was the most frequent spot that broke.

    Hopefully, that issue can be rectified cuz I would love a 1911 frame that supports OEM style grips

  • The Kaewon remix is mint

  • Personally, I'd just stick with PA6, or if your printer can handle it PPA, from my understanding ASA can be more hassle than it's worth, plus it's not as strong, and layer adhesion can be hit or miss

  • Can we all give a little appreciation for The Shittinator, man's a legend for inputting all this time, work, and dedication to make our hobby continue to live, and dare I say thrive

    Appreciate you homey

  • The GOAT himself, hell yeah brother

  • What a glorious Christmas miracle

  • I like 2

  • Out of nowhere too. Sucks

    FOSSCADtoo is Dead, Long Live GunCAD

  • Would you happen to have a link to your post?

  • From all the research I've done, they're quite similar, however PA6-CF is the superior material

  • Guns. Clown face, explosions, thumbs down, Abraham Lincoln riding an elephant shirtless with a pistol/rifle

  • 🫡

  • I Knew it! Welcome back brother 😀 🙏

  • Brother, a Bambu H2D is way more expensive than you really need. If you're still able to, cancel that and pick up a Elegoo Centauri Carbon ($300 from their site). It's enclosed, comes with a hardened hotend to print Carbon Fiber Nylon, and learn on that

  • General Discussion @forum.guncadindex.com
    ItsBildo

    PPA-CF vs PA6-CF?

    PPA-CF vs PA6-CF?

    Does anyone have experience printing PPA-CF and PA6-CF? I had read that "PPA-CF is 48% stronger" than PA6 if you get good layer adhesion, but I'm seeing conflicting info regarding impact resistance. Anyone have input who's printed and used both?

  • Elegoo Centauri Carbon, it's half the price of p1s, can print nylon out of the box as it comes with a hardened hotend, and has an enclosure for $299.99

  • General Discussion @forum.guncadindex.com
    ItsBildo

    Whatever you say, Boomer

    Kaewon's OK Boomer checkered remix. Polymaker PLA-Tough FDE

  • General Discussion @forum.guncadindex.com
    ItsBildo

    Refugees of r/FOSSCAD, lend me thy ears!

    This just may be the solution to our woes. Big shout out to shittinator for getting this setup.Can't Stop the signal!