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Keeper of the Ark.

  • u/Tyy9085 · 2024-07-23 10:54:50 UTC · score 1

    I'm sure there are definitely better settings but these are great imo

  • u/Tyy9085 · 2024-07-23 10:49:05 UTC · score 1

    You can try these settings , everything's comes off perfect and the bottom where supports connect are clean and strong, tree -45degree/grid/30%density. -gradual support infill steps 3/step height 4.8(if you print something bigger you can go up with this) -support roof/floor thickness .8 / support roof/floor density 50% / support interface pattern roof/floor Triangles. Support top/bottom distance .20 support x/y distance(since you have a pattern on grip I would go 1.1-1.3 but you will still be good if you use the standard .8-.9 because these settings make the support strong enough in it self to to pull off easily and not effect the print

  • u/Friscoler · 2024-07-22 17:19:11 UTC · score 2

    No that’s good, you want the layer lines to go in the length of the lower since the lower takes the most stress in its length, especially the buffer tower.

  • u/Special-Muffin-3538 · 2024-07-23 06:13:09 UTC · score 2

    For an AR lower I suppose, but let's remember that printing a lower in PLA costs less than a takeout pizza.

  • u/bimma187039 · 2024-07-22 17:01:13 UTC · score 1

    Yeah I think so. Is there a different one I should use?

  • u/Tyy9085 · 2024-07-23 10:54:29 UTC · score 1

    Support top and bottom being z gap, these settings are great for printing pretty much anything. Some settings will change if you decide to to ever change later height. This looks great for a lower but having weak supports that bind with the print weakens the actually print, so for this should be fine I would melt it with a hot iron or heat up a screw driver and melt it together and sand it to create a strong solid bottom, doesn't make up for the loss of strength above though. If you do anything else make sure your supports are a strong foundation for your print. Happy printing! I got all this information from fosscad and tried different settings to see how each thing effects the print

  • u/tinyrick_7 · 2024-07-22 18:59:22 UTC · score 3

    I use .16 z gap then .1 for my interface. Underside comes out good and supports aren't bad to remove.

  • u/bimma187039 · 2024-07-22 17:01:01 UTC · score 2

    The z offset of my supports? I had them at the default 1X layer height and they were kind of hard to remove. Is there a better adhesion layer pattern?

  • u/BuckABullet · 2024-07-22 22:17:22 UTC · score 2

    Just so I understand though, the problem is just cosmetic, correct? I'm all for dialing in the settings to get things perfect, but this print is a full send, isn't it?

  • u/airplanemechanic · 2024-07-23 06:59:00 UTC · score 1

    Is it to scale? My Hoffman prints on my p1p come out perfect but then the mag won’t fit in the magwell. It is not my slicer settings as I have printed other projects with great success. This happens on ALL Hoffman prints on my p1p. He does mention it in his documentation that it could happen but does not have any information on how to fix it

  • u/SportOk8522 · 2024-07-22 20:07:04 UTC · score 1

    I’ve never messed with it, but have you tried that support material stuff?

  • u/MistakeOdd7222 · 2024-07-22 20:54:00 UTC · score 1

    This stuff looks clean asf what material is this ? Red CF nylon ???!!!

  • u/300blkFDE · 2024-07-22 20:05:46 UTC · score 2

    It’s a lot easier to adjust your supports on Orca Slicer. Don’t be scared thinking it’s a whole different program because it looks like you are in Bambu studio because it looks the exact same but you get some more options and it really helps. Once you download it you sign into your Bambu account just like you do in Bambu and you can still view your camera and progress from it and send to computer from it.

  • u/Exotic-carrot · 2024-07-22 18:49:40 UTC · score 6

    What filament is this? That’s a nice matte red

  • u/Tyy9085 · 2024-07-23 10:53:19 UTC · score 2

    You can try these settings , everything's comes off perfect and the bottom where supports connect are clean and strong, tree -45degree/grid/30%density. -gradual support infill steps 3/step height 4.8(if you print something bigger you can go up with this) -support roof/floor thickness .8 / support roof/floor density 50% / support interface pattern roof/floor Triangles. Support top/bottom distance .20 support x/y distance(since you have a pattern on grip I would go 1.1-1.3 but you will still be good if you use the standard .8-.9 because these settings make the support strong enough in it self to to pull off easily and not effect the print

  • u/Special-Muffin-3538 · 2024-07-22 16:55:54 UTC · score 6

    I think the under sides look a bit crusty including the buffer tube area. Adjust your support settings with test prints.

  • u/Friscoler · 2024-07-22 16:56:33 UTC · score 1

    Did you use an aligned rectilinear fill pattern?

  • u/hudnut · 2023-03-02 20:22:02 UTC · score 2

    did this ever materialize?

  • The Ark @fosscad.io
    Noah
    BOT

    Rickey Tickey

    Originally posted by u/Apprehensive_Tap4837 at 2025-06-23T02:13:46Z

    Reddit permalink


    Like a sewing machine.


  • The Ark @fosscad.io
    Noah
    BOT

    Boomer approved.

    Originally posted by u/Apprehensive_Tap4837 at 2025-06-23T02:05:39Z

    Reddit permalink


    Ran the newest lock pick in a standard ChOrtex chassis. Smoooooth....


  • The Ark @fosscad.io
    Noah
    BOT

    First 2A print, 15mm Nova Launcher

  • The Ark @fosscad.io
    Noah
    BOT

    El Ratto-firing test

    Originally posted by u/OkApplication460 at 2025-06-23T01:29:13Z

    Reddit permalink


    It's just a test shot, but as I said, the shot jams, but the gun still works.

    By the way, as I said, I made some modifications, such as using a 12mm barrel from Aliexpress and also slightly modifying the slide.


  • The Ark @fosscad.io
    Noah
    BOT

    MP5 22lr FRT progress

    Originally posted by u/Realistic_Ad_9767 at 2025-06-23T00:34:38Z

    Reddit permalink


    Finally had a chance to test the buffer weight today, there is still a bit of bolt bounce. Lead shot is proven to be not enough, I have tungsten rod on the way . Should be able to significantly increase the amount of weight inside the buffer. Current setup adds about 11g only, container is about 7g, the lead shot( moving weight is only about 4g)

    Also testing the durability of the printed parts in the trigger, will take it apart to see how it’s holding up.


  • The Ark @fosscad.io
    Noah
    BOT

    Ammo Storage for Milwaukee Packout!

  • The Ark @fosscad.io
    Noah
    BOT

    whats the best semi auto i can make with 170$

    Originally posted by u/Ok_Investment2723 at 2025-06-22T23:28:14Z

    Reddit permalink


    I got around 170$ to blow on a semi auto. it got to be in rimfire 22 9mm or 556 cuz i already got a bunch of it im currently looking at a lo point c9 (yes ik it will be a peace of crap) i was thinking fgc9 but it ends up being a lil to much what do yall think i should build


  • The Ark @fosscad.io
    Noah
    BOT

    DB9 alloy sten question

    Originally posted by u/Far_Measurement_7526 at 2025-06-22T23:09:06Z

    Reddit permalink


    What is the best mac upper for the DB9 alloy sten mag variant? I understand there are lemons with every company but i would like my best luck and hear it from someone with some experience with it. Thank you


  • The Ark @fosscad.io
    Noah
    BOT

    New Lock Picks X2

    Originally posted by u/Apprehensive_Tap4837 at 2025-06-22T23:08:44Z

    Reddit permalink


    2 freshies.


  • The Ark @fosscad.io
    Noah
    BOT

    A Newb's first prints - PY2A G19C in PPA-CF

    Originally posted by u/LaGgY_42o at 2025-06-22T22:59:47Z

    Reddit permalink


    Bambu X1C - 0.4mm Nozzle - SUNLU E2 - Fibreheart PPA-CF - Annealed in E2 - Printed Rails Down - Range Tested


  • The Ark @fosscad.io
    Noah
    BOT

    Harlot

  • The Ark @fosscad.io
    Noah
    BOT

    Best printer suggestions?im looking to upgrade to a new printer between 300-700$!

    Originally posted by u/Worldly-Ability2451 at 2025-06-22T22:32:53Z

    Reddit permalink


  • The Ark @fosscad.io
    Noah
    BOT

    Anyone in Vegas want to help me test an AK prototype? PM me!

  • The Ark @fosscad.io
    Noah
    BOT

    First PA612-CF Print

    Originally posted by u/GeekerConvention at 2025-06-22T21:08:47Z

    Reddit permalink


    First time printing carbon nylon. It doesn’t look as great as everyone else’s, tips and criticism is very welcomed


  • The Ark @fosscad.io
    Noah
    BOT

    Input

    Originally posted by u/Ok_Membership8137 at 2025-06-22T20:38:17Z

    Reddit permalink


    Would either of these work of the p80 76 bridge frames trigger housing


  • The Ark @fosscad.io
    Noah
    BOT

    Handguard for MOLOT Vepr 7.62x54R

    Originally posted by u/KineticTechProjects at 2025-06-22T19:59:59Z

    Reddit permalink


    Printable handguard for VEPR 7.62x54R. Sailing under Kinetic Technology Projects.


  • The Ark @fosscad.io
    Noah
    BOT

    Which printer is better

    Originally posted by u/Competitive_Rush5644 at 2025-06-22T19:54:43Z

    Reddit permalink


    I have narrowed down 3 options to step into the 2A 3d printing world with

    Creality k1 speedy (the newer release) Elegoo centurari carbon AD5m pro

    All of these printers I have found for a good price the k1 was around 313$ the elegoo is 299$ and the 5m pro is 350$ I saw that qidi q1 pro is a good printer but its also nearly 500$

    I don’t plan on printing a lot of frames or items i just want 1 or 2 good reliable frames and i might makes some mags or grips later down the line i will mostly print in pla+ and I might drift off to cf pa12 when i learn more about printing every printer has its pros and cons like the elegoo is hard to get parts and find info online due to being new and the k1 i seen people have a lot of issues. If someone that knows more or has printed on these printers would like to give me their opinio

  • The Ark @fosscad.io
    Noah
    BOT

    M4gery Colt 604

    Originally posted by u/Heythere1979 at 2025-06-22T19:51:52Z

    Reddit permalink


    Huge shoutout to u/kaewon for the files, these parts are all entirely from his collection, save for the bayonet. I printed this off months ago and have never bothered to finish it, even tho I have the parts kit from print-a-22.

    I really, REALLY like the aesthetics of the M16A1/Colt 604, and desperately want to put together a ‘real’ one, but can’t justify spending another $1k on yet another 5.56 AR, so I printed this instead! Still a lotta work to do to get it to where I’d be happy with it (and functional lol) but the print quality on parts have been lacking. I’ve been unable to print a bayonet blade that sticks to the build plate surface the entire time yet, as well as some echos showing in the other parts of the print. Printed some pieces with a .2mm nozzle, like the lower, in order to be able to read the print on the side.

    Thi

  • The Ark @fosscad.io
    Noah
    BOT

    Which printer is better for reliable frames

    Originally posted by u/Competitive_Rush5644 at 2025-06-22T19:40:13Z

    Reddit permalink


    I have narrowed down to a few printers as my first printer to step into the 2A 3d printing world Creality k1 speedy (the newer release) or elegoo Centauri carbon or the ad5m pro.

    K1303$ Elegoo-299$ (pre order) Ad5m pro350$

    I don’t really plan on printing “hundreds” of frames and items I really want to make a reliable dd19.2 in pla+ or make something stronger like cf pa12 and I might make a dd26 down the line or explore out with attachments like mags and grips and etc I heard the qidi q1 pro is good but it’s also closer to the 500$ plus range. Every printer has its pros and cons I just want something that will help me learn through the process and not get frustrated from lack of info online (elegoo from being recently new and hard to get parts) or just random errors I saw the k1 have. So whi

  • The Ark @fosscad.io
    Noah
    BOT

    Retractable Picatinny Brace for DEAR22

    Originally posted by u/KineticTechProjects at 2025-06-22T19:24:07Z

    Reddit permalink


    This is a retractable brace that uses commonly available steel bar stock for the arms. I couldn't find something like this which I wanted to use, so I designed this one. It could use some improvements, but I am releasing anyways since there doesn't seem to be anything else comparable out there right now. The design interfaces a standard picatinny mount but will probably not fit if your receiver is any wider than the DEAR22 (about 35mm).