📡 SEEED T1000: https://www.seeedstudio.com/SenseCAP-...📡 SEEED L1 Pro: https://www.seeedstudio.com/Wio-Track...📡 Heltec Mesh Pocket: https://heltec.org/project/meshpocket/📡 Heltect Mesh Pocket (Amazon): https://amzn.to/4p1YIny📡 Lily Go T-Deck Plus: https://amzn.to/48cy43Z📡 LowMesh Pocket-S Solar: https://lowmesh.com/📡 Muzi Works R1 Neo & H2T: https://muzi.works/collections/all📡 Smiley Antenna: https://www.smileyantenna.com/shop/p/...

pls upload your pics. saw some stupid cocksucker try to charge $40 for this. enjoy

https://odysee.com/@glockSwitch:c/Xanax-Vertical-Foregrip:0

cross-posted from: https://forum.guncadindex.com/post/174772

pls upload your pics. saw some stupid cocksucker try to charge $40 for this. enjoy

https://odysee.com/@glockSwitch:c/Xanax-Vertical-Foregrip:0

cross-posted from: https://forum.guncadindex.com/post/174772

pls upload your pics. saw some stupid cocksucker try to charge $40 for this. enjoy

https://odysee.com/@glockSwitch:c/Xanax-Vertical-Foregrip:0

I'm looking to build a 3d-printed glock 19 as my first build. I was wondering if you guys had any tips on how to prevent malfunctions and ensure that it feeds properly and doesn't have any hiccups.

My plan is printing rails-up to make sure everything fits with no issue and will of course calibrate the filament. Regarding the lower parts, how important is it to get an OEM LPK? Is it absolutely mandatory for reliability?

For rails and a locking block, I plan on using Aves or any other reliable vendor. For the magazine, I'm gonna use a Magpul magazine.

What about slide? I'd prefer not an OEM since aftermarket OEM glock slides cost almost as much as a glock itself. Do you guys have any suggestions on aftermarket slides that are reliable? I was thinking maybe a PSA dagger slide, or even an RXM slide, since they are both cross-compatible.

Basically title. I'm in the EU, so I need a 868Mhz one. I need it to be weather-resistant, because I'm making an outdoors node. Cost and size are not an issue. I plan to mount it relatively high.

I'll most likely install it on a Heltec T114.

I have a side gig that involves a popular accessory I designed and open-sourced for use on a popular 22LR rifle under another alias.

Every single order I ship I now include the following on the packing slip:

"I’d like to bring to your attention that on 1/1/2026 the National Firearms Act (NFA) tax on silencers dropped from $200 to $0. If you live in a legal state, you can now file a “Form1” and 3D print a legal .22lr silencer at home such as the “FTN.5" 22LR variant at a cost under $10.

[LINK TO FILE]"

Why? Because we are censored on every platform to some extent. By doing this I am directly communicating to someone that:

• Does not currently own a printer

• Owns a popular 22LR that is most commonly sold threaded.

• Posseses the tinkerer spirit/tism

Now is the time, while these things are free to make to use what means we have left for spreading the word. I suggest others do the same.

(Kinda feel like Gil Scott-Heron in "Message to the Messengers" writing this shit lol)

just finished the build and when i went to function check, it worked great one time then not again, its not resetting so the hammer is just traveling with the trigger pull but the hammer isnt staying cocked. would the sear have maybe broke or something else maybe during that first function check? lmk if theres any pics that would help

So I've always recommended the Heltec kits as a good entry-level kit but I can't anymore due to issues with the USB->UART chips in them. What I originally chalked up as a mild annoyance has now proven to be a safety concern.

I've had 11 of them total. Of those, two had the USB->UART chip fail within the first week. Everything else still worked, so I was able to repurpose them as "repeaters" and manage them over LoRa. Firmware updates were a brute since I had to crack them open and use an external serial connection, but, still, I was willing to continue recommending them as entry level kits.

Cut to today and that is no longer the case after my everyday carry node decided to self destruct in a way that I am very fortunate wasn't a fire.

I woke up and noticed the charge light was kicking on and off in a weird cadence. Clicked the button to see if it was even running (it was) but the battery was down to 30%. It was also hot. Very hot. It's uptime was only about 5 minutes whic

Still shows on the index but its no longer on odysee.

I have been a huge fan of PPA-CF in my testing. However the more research I do, the more I see people recommending some variation of PA6-CF. My problem is I test in an area with notoriously high humidity throughout the year, so anything I build to last, must be able to handle moisture. I have decided the annealing process is not worth it for me, but as an alternative, what water treatment methods are out there to better help PA6-CF not be so hydrophobic? The specific filament I am testing with is Polymaker PA6-CF20.

I don't have any reason right now to suspect this happening, but I can't get it out of my mind that the Meshtastic project may at some point paywall the app or otherwise enshittify it as it gains popularity.

This sudden fear came at the heels of another open source project I had been using (PicoKey) deciding to pull some enshittification. The dev pulled down all the tools that let you configure the keys, left them down for several months, and finally released a paywalled app which is now the only way to configure them. Thankfully I am still using my Yubikey for most things and the PicoKey was just for some internal test stuff.

I know MeshCore does similar; you pay for the app but the firmware is free.

So, is this fear misplaced, justified, and does anyone see the project forking if this were to happen?

Edit: I'm aware of a few desktop apps such as an AIM-like messenger and a TUI-based one). I'm talki

GunCAD Index 1.4.2 Released

Changes should be live in production within 24 hours

• Fixed: Random debug logging statement in outbound view no longer echoes
• Fixed: Coverage script can no longer split-brain about debug being enabled
• Fixed: Outbound URLs are now tokenized to prevent forgery
• Added: Disclaimer page all users must accept before visiting
• Changed: Logo is now rasterized so it works on Tor again
• Changed: Minor verbiage alterations to disclaimer

https://gitlab.com/guncad-index/index/-/releases/1.4.2

@TheShittinator@forum.guncadindex.com

I have been looking for a SS trip bar the for Matador Arm MAT-9 upper. I have not seen much discussion about it, so I have started designing one. My initial design seems to mostly work dry firing. I am tuning the length right now so it fully resets the trigger and still trips the disconnect once in battery. I am 3d printing them right now and I will upload the model if anyone else is interested in helping test this.

Wondering that the best brand of PA6-CF is? Or if there are like a top three to use and a top three to avoid? Thinking I want to go with polymaker or Bambu but I’m open to being convinced there are better options.

A long time ago I made the Granite 57 available as a beta release. It didn't get much traction at the time, but I wanted a smaller, more compact version so I dusted off my CAD machine and got to it.

With Unseen Killer's help, I was able to determine that my Franken 9 problems were entirely due to using printed Sten mags. There was a different problem that affects only milsurp mags, but that's fixed in UK's latest drop. If you're using milsurp mags, print the latest frame and you should be good to go.

The problem with printed mags is that the dimensions deviate significantly from production magazine drawings. Every design I checked was wider at the feed lips and flared more steeply than specs call for. Most are also about 1mm shorter font-to-back. As a result, they won't seat deep enough to reach the mag catch or feed correctly (or at all). To be clear, there's nothing the Franken 9 can do to fix this -- the incompatibility is with the Glock slide itself.

I didn't want to print new mags just for this build, but curiosity got the best of me. I remixed a "spec-ish" version of the DMB Sten v1.1 and squirted a test print in PLA Pro. With that the Franken 9 is able to feed 100% reli

I've just completed my Saratevo build and so far it is running great. I was looking at the safety geometry and that got me wondering - is there a super safe or frt option? I've done some digging and it seems like scorpion bolts + super safe aren't a great combo, but with the oobs ramp in the Saratevo maybe it is possible? (i'd love a burst option, but I haven't found much about those either)